There’s a reason Willi Schaefer's wines are so beloved. Part of it is that they’re so scarce; the estate is all of 4.2 hectares with no desire to grow. Part of is the wines themselves; they’re delicious. The Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett opens with a brilliantly clear and still reductive bouquet of crushed slate and perfectly ripe Riesling fruit.